Must visit: The white-washed village in Andalucia that boasts St Valentine as its patron - and it's easy to see why, writes JON CLARKE / Back to basics: Churros, calamari sarnies and zarajos; why Madrid is a lot more than Michelin stars. Jon Clarke picks over some of its true culinary institutions / The Philippe Effect: The giant red bull's head looming over the Serrania de Ronda is a Starck masterpiece, writes Jon Clarke / Transformations, upcycling and fine specialist painting for celebrities, royals and power brokers - Now the talented couple behind London's Rock 'n' Rolf are back in Marbella and the Costa del Sol, writes Jon Clarke